My last post featured some of the best destinations in Europe for foliage and the aesthetic delight of autumn.
Admiring its colourful beauty is only one way to appreciate the magic of autumn in Europe. There is another.
The season of food enjoyment
I love how the English poet John Keats described the autumn, as ‘the season of mists and mellow fruitfulness.’
In the farming communities of pre-industrial Europe, November was when the toil in the fields was finally over. People could reap the reward of their hard work, eating the food harvested and preserved during the summer.
All over Europe, these traditions have survived in fairs and events dedicated to specific local foods, as well as in family recipes and gatherings.
This is what I want to focus on in this post: how to join in that enjoyment of local and traditional food, which, in many parts of the continent, turns eating and drinking into a seasonal celebration.
The continent of Slow Food
Started in Italy in the late 80’s, the Slow Food movement has played a great role in raising people’s awareness of the importance of preserving these food traditions, and of eating and drinking appreciatively and mindfully.
Central to the Slow Food philosophy is the concept of eco-gastronomy‘, which they describe as:
A recognition of the strong connections between plate and planet, and the fact that our food choices have a major impact on the health of the environment and society.
A flightless holiday in which you help local communities preserve their tradition and support a healthy relationship between food and the environment seems like a natural choice. But you are not just being kind to the planet.
A food adventure in Europe at this time of the year is a real treat. And it is not just food either. All over Europe, people are also rediscovering a passion for more natural wines, and beers, and other local traditional drinks. Your autumn journey through Europe can easily turn into an Epicurean delight!
The best that Europe has to offer in autumn: great food and great wines
Below are a few suggestions for destinations where you can appreciate the bounty of the European harvest and the artisan food-making traditions of many European countries.
1. The Beaujolais villages
The new season Beaujolais arrives on the third Thursday of November, so why not go and taste it in its area of origin?
The pretty Villefranche-sur-Saône is the capital of the Beaujolais region and a great base for exploring the area’s picturesque villages and vineyards, and the gentle landscape dotted with chateaux.
Another excellent base is the delightful village of Bois-d’Oingt, in the middle of the picturesque Tuscany-like OVal d’Oingt. You can hike, cycle or travel around on the local bus network to visit the other Beaujolais villages, such as the Beaujolais historical heart of Beaujeu.
Beaujeu also hosts the 5-day Les Sarmentelles festival, where a candlelit procession precedes the opening of the first barrel at midnight.
If wine is not your only enogastronomic interest, the local honey and oil are also renowned. The area is also part of the Valley of Gastronomy, a network set up by the regions of Burgundy -Franche-Comté, Auvergne Rhône-Alpes and Provence- Alpes Côte-d’Azur to encourage the appreciation of local food and wine heritage.
Getting there:
Beaujolais is very accessible by car from Belgium, Luxembourg, the Netherlands, Switzerland, Austria, and parts of Italy.
Thanks to its proximity to Lyon, it is easy to travel there by train from Belgium, the UK, Germany, Italy, and Switzerland on the SNCF, DB, SBB, Lyria, and Trenitalia networks. Once in Lyon change for a local train to Villefranche or Bois d’Oingt and then hike, cycle or move around on local buses.
2. White truffle and wine in the Langhe, Piedmont
Every year between early October and early December Alba hosts the Fiera Internazionale del Tartufo Bianco di Alba, the world’s top event for white truffle lovers.
While its core is the Alba White Truffle World Market, the event is now complemented by seminars, restaurant pop-ups and cooking shows, as well as wine tastings.
Charming Alba, a town of Roman origin surrounded by rolling hills, also lies at the centre of the UNESCO-Heritage-listed Langhe region, whose vineyards produce some of Italy’s most prestigious wines, such as Barolo, Barbaresco, and Nebbiolo.
If you are not a truffles aficionado, you can can wander the cobbled streets of the centre to discover other rich dishes of the Piedmontese culinary tradition, such as tajarin pasta, agnolotti, risotto al Castelmagno and brasato al Barolo,
To burn the calories, go hiking and cycling in the nearby hills.
Getting there:
You can drive to Alba easily from France, Belgium, Luxembourg, the Netherlands, Switzerland, Austria, and parts of Germany.
Thanks to its proximity to Torino, Alba is well connected by train to France, Belgium, the Netherlands, and the UK, catching the Paris-Lyon-Chambery speed train to Torino Porta Susa. the route is covered by both SNCF and Trenitalia. From Germany and Austria it is best to head to Milan on the ÖBB Nightjet train and change for Torino. Once in Torino Porta Susa, get on a train to Torino Lingotto for 6 minutes and from there onto the train to Alba for one hour.
3. The Culinary delights of Emilia-Romagna
Parma, Reggio Emilia, Modena, and Bologna. When you think of Italian food you will often find yourself thinking of the specialities of this region: the ham and culatello from Parma, the Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese from Reggio Emilia and Parma, the balsamic vinegar of Modena, the mortadella from Bologna.
Add to that that Emilia is the capital of filled past – tortellini, cappelletti and tortelli, and a region where seasonal cooking is second nature and you are in for real treats.
Autumn is the perfect time to appreciate the meats and the rich food, washed down by some local wines, such as the sparkling Lambrusco and Pignoletto, which are being rediscovered by wine lovers worldwide.
If you are into art and culture, this is a region filled with undiscovered delights – many dramatic pages of medieval and Renaissance Italian history were written here. If you drive it is also easy to visit the many castles on the hills between Parma and Piacenza.
If you prefer a city break, Bologna and Parma are both great choices.
Getting there:
You can drive to Emilia-Romagna from France, Belgium, Luxembourg, Switzerland, Austria, and most of Germany. It’s a bit longer but still worthwhile from the Netherlands and the UK.
By train, the fastest route is via Paris on the Trenitalia or SNCF fast train. When you arrive in Milano you can get on a fast FrecciaRossa or Ialo train to Reggio Emilia Mediopadana or Bologna. Alternatively, catch a regional train – they also stop at Piacenza and Modena. From Austria and Germany that are Eurocity day trains and ÖBB Nighjet trains to Bologna.
4. South Tyrol province
Known as Südtirol in German and Trentino Alto Adige in Italian, This German-speaking part of Italy is a sustainable tourist’s dream. Alternative energies are widely employed; tourists are encouraged and even subsidised to travel on public transport; the food is almost all locally-grown and often organic; their wines, often produced following traditional methods and hand-picking the grapes, are divine.
Autumn, the low-season window between the summer hiking and the ski seasons, is the perfect time to go and enjoy its culinary delights.
The hikes will make you hungry and even more appreciative of the local food, which is German/Bavarian with rich Italian influences.
There are many beautiful small cities and villages it is hard to make a recommendation. In my personal experience, the areas around Merano and Bressanone (Brixen in German) are brilliant for wines, whereas Ortisei and Val Gardena have spectacular yoghurt and cheeses.
If you are passionate about wines, try and time your visit with the Merano Wine Festival in early November.
Are you looking for relaxation? The spa culture is strong in Südtirol. There are great public thermal baths, and if you invest in an upmarket hotel for a couple of nights, many have their own state-of-the-art in-house spa and wellness centre.
Getting there:
The drive to Südtirol is very fast and smooth from Austria, Switzerland and Bavaria. If you are coming from the rest of Germany, France, Belgium, Luxembourg, the Netherlands and the UK, you’ll need an overnight stop.
By train, the fastest route is through Munich. DB trains to Brenner and Verona depart from there every two hours. From Brussels, Paris, and Amsterdam to Munich a great travel option are the ÖBB Nighjet night trains. You sleep en route to Munich and then you wake up to change train and enjoy a truly wonderful ride through the Alps. Day trains require a few changes, but you can turn them into stopovers!
5. The market towns of Provence
A few years ago I found myself in the centre of Aix-en-Provence on a sunny November morning and discovered their incredible market, brimming with colourful vegetables, jars of honey, quiches, Provençal handicrafts, soaps and wines.
I have since discovered that markets are ubiquitous in Provence, and spread throughout the week. Saint-Rémy-de-Provence‘s on a Wednesday is the largest, Carpentras hosts a truffle market on Fridays from mid-November to the end of March, and the Saturday market of the village of Apt, in the Luberon, has been attracting customers since the 16th century with the flavours of tapenades, apricots jams, and nougats.
If you want to experience the beauty of Provence without the crowds, autumn is the perfect time to go and enjoy it slowly at your own pace, savouring the fresh local produce. And when the days shorten, the bright light of Provence so beloved of the impressionist painters will nourish your heart too!
Getting there:
The drive to Provence from Germany, Italy, Austria, Northern Spain, Belgium, and the western part of Germany is easy, although in some cases an overnight will make sense.
By train, the SNCF high-speed network will get you there via Paris from Brussels, Amsterdam, Frankfurt, Cologne, Basel, and Geneva. From Italy, you can catch a Trenitalia service to Ventimiglia and change at the border for SNCF,
Practical tips
Depending on the time at your disposal, you can visit these destinations on a long weekend break, or make a week of them.
Travelling by car? Check your insurance as you may need to upgrade your cover. to take your car abroad.
If you are staying for more than a few days and have a dog, you can take them with you. Here is a post where I share my experience of taking a dog from the UK to Europe (and through Europe) and my tips.
Will you travel by train? Check your options and turn your trip into a journey. If you intend to stay more than a few days, RailEurope is probably the best site to use. It allows you to buy train travel passes rather than just one-way or return journeys. Alternatively, Trainline is always a reliable option.
As food is such an important part of this kind of break, It also makes sense to treat yourself to a unique and authentic eating and drinking experience.
Eatwith is a great place to find anything from food tours, to authentic meals in people’s homes, to wine and food tastings.
More European autumn travel ideas
Follow John Keats’s cue and make your plan to embrace the season of mists and mellow fruitfulness!
If, for you, autumn means foliage, check out my guide to the best foliage destinations in Europe.
Would you rather catch some late sun? Here are some great destinations to enjoy the seaside well into autumn.
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