Inside Europe’s tidal wonder: discovering Mont Saint Michel

Mont Saint-Michel: A fortress island between earth, water and sky

I had dreamt of visiting Mont Saint-Michel since I was a child. When covering the topic of tides, Our science teacher gave us a lesson using Mont Saint Michel as the ultimate example. Pictures of the beautiful island fortress, rising from the sands at low tide, and from the waters of the Atlantic at high tide, stayed with me forever.

So when I finally had a chance to visit, I grabbed it. Here is what I discovered.

The history of Mont Saint-Michel

According to legend, in the early 8th century a Bishop of nearby Avranches has a vision of the Archangel Michael, who ordered him to build a Sanctuary in his honour on the site known as Monte Tombe. Th sanctuary had to be a replica of the San Michele Archangelo Sanctuary in Puglia, Italy, where the Archangel was already venerated.

Bishop Aubert then sent two monks to Puglia to source some relics. According to legend, a Tsunami recorded for March 709 destroyed the Surrounding forest and turned Mont Tombe into the island it is today. The bishop then dedicated the island to Mont Saint Michel and placed 12 canons there.

The sanctuary’s dramatic location and the cult of Saint Michael, archangel of justice, soon made the island a significant pilgrimage centre. Charlemagne even made Saint Michael the patron of the empire which only helped grew the prestige of the island fortress.

During the Viking raids of the following century, the monks left, but the island was still used as a refuge by local populations as the unpredictable tides offered protection from attacks.

At the end of the dark ages, Mont Saint Michel fell under the sphere of influence of the Dukes of Normandy – and the archbishop of Rouen. In the 11th century, the dukes sponsored the expansion of the original building.

The hiring of William of Volpiano, who had built the abbey at Fecamp, proved a master stroke. William designed the Romanesque abbey church and took the daring decision of placing the transept crossing at the top of the mountain. To compensate for the weight of this striking architectural feat he built underground crypts and chapels underneath it. You can still visit them today. Just a look at the size of the supporting columns gives you an idea of the force required to support the mighty church above!

The initial oratory is not completely lost, it is now a chapel on this lower ‘support’ level of the abbey, dedicated to Notre-Dame-Sous-Terre (Our Lady Underground).

In 1204 the Regent for the Duchy of Brittany conquered the Abbey, setting fire to the village, massacring the inhabitants and causing serious Damage to the abbey itself. To compensate for his vassal’s cruelty, the king of France Philip II Augustus paid for some magnficent rebuilding work. The Gothic-style cloister, refectory, and guest rooms all date from this era. They form a complex rightly called ‘La merveille‘ or ‘The wonder.’ The walls were also strengthened.

Another significant moment in the history of the island fortress was the 100 Years War. Despite repeated attempts, the English never captured it. In part, the reason was the protection it received from the tides. This helped turned Saint Michel into the powerful symbol of French identity it remains to this day.

Its place in the French psyche and culture, and the breathtaking beauty of its architecture and nature continue to draw visitors from all over the world. Mont Saint Michel is now the most visited site in France after Paris.

If you feel strongly against overtourism, you may be tempted to stop reading. I will not deny that Saint Michel is busy. But there are times of the day and periods in the year when it is less crowded. Instead of giving up on the opportunity to see this dream site, I planned my visit carefully so that I could enjoy its wild beauty and mysticism in peace.

What is there to see in Mont Saint Michel Bay?

I specifically said ‘Bay’ because there is more to Mont Saint Michel than just the island. In fact, for me, appreciating the fortress island from the distance was just as magical as Exploring inside it. Make the time to do both.

You will make out Mont Saint Michel from miles away, and it will feel like a vision you are striving towards, making you eager to go. Do remind yourself that Mont Saint Michel was, and is to this day, a pilgrimage site. That makes the journey there as important as the destination.

Take the time to reach it slowly, mindfully. I arrived on foot from Beauvoir, and it enriched my experience. You could also cycle there. The roads connecting Mont Saint Michel to the nearby villages are not too busy, and if you avoid the main ones it will just be you and nature, with the occasional hamlet and farmhouse.

Mont Saint is a world, a microcosm. The rolling hills around it feel like green waves, driving you onwards. You will eventually arrive at a parking area, and to a ‘touristy’ patch, with some hotels and restaurants. Keep going. The bay will soon come into view, opening your field of vision, and your field of possibilities. The island, ahead, spurring you on.

To the sides of the road are two paths. Walk on one of them. Around you are rolling fields, grasses swaying in the wind all the way to the sea. Normandy cows are grazing with a view of the abbey, if it means anything to them. You reaise you are in the middle of the bay, and you could go on a coastal walk to either the right or the left, and continue to admire the fortress from different angles. Do it if you have the time. It is recommended that you use a local guide, familiar with the mud you may encounter, and with the tides.

The road to Mont Saint Michel eventually turns into a walkway connecting the mainland and the island, making it easier to cross regardless of the tide. I was disappointed, at first, because I wanted to walk all the way. On the positive side, The walkway is used by cyclists and by shuttle buses, making the island more accessible. Does it steal some of the magic? Maybe. The architects actually did a good job. The greysh wood and metal structure of the walkway blends well with the sand and ocean surroundings, and the pedestrian paths give you plenty of opportunities for taking pictures.

At the end of the walkway, you will be on the sand, just outside the mighty ramparts, the gate ahead of you. You are ready to cross into a unique world.

Inside Mont Saint Michel

There is a whole village at the foot of the abbey. with tiny cobbled alleyways. If you arrive between 10am and 4pm, the alleyways on the lower levels will be busy. Souvenir shops and over-priced eateries will tempt you. They will also feel offputting if you are looking for a peaceful, mystical place. Keep going. The crowds seem somehow to hang around at the bottom of the island. The alleyways higher up are more peaceful, and offer incredible views of the ramparts and the bay.

At the top is the abbey itself. You will need a ticket, but it is worth it. You will learn so much about the history of the place, enjoy some unforgettable views, and truly wonder at the genius of the builders of this incredible site.

Last admissions are one hour before closing time, and you can plan your visit here. However, 1 hour is not enough to truly appreciate the site. If you arrive late, and are staying overnight, maybe come back early the next morning or at mid-afternoon the next day. This is a visit you do not want to rush. It is an experience of mindfulness, of being in the moment and appreciating everything precious and unique that this site and setting throw at you.

After getting your ticket, you will cross the abbey gate and climb up towards the church.

Although a few changes were made in the following centres such as adding glass-stained windoes, The Romanesque structure of the Abbey Church is still the one built by William of Volpiano in the 12th century, mighty and serene.

From the church, you can access the west terrace, the largest in Mont Saint Michel. You will have the church rising, its tip touching the sky.

All around the terrace you will be surrounded by sea and sand, with earth in the distance. It is worth paying for the ticket even just to have this view.

After the church you will begin the exploration of the magnificent rebuilding work funded by Philip II Augusuts, known as La Merveille.

These include cloisters, a beautiful and serene space with delicate carvings and intricate stonework.

The Refectory flooded with light and with windows opening on to the sea, almost connecting you to water and sky, is another highlight. It boasts with impressive vaulted ceilings and beautiful flooring.

Mont Saint-Michel’s High Tide

One of the most spectacular experiences at Mont Saint-Michel is witnessing the high tide. Twice a day, the sea engulfs the bay, completely transforming the landscape.

Now, I need to dispel a myth. At Mont Saint Michel, Not all tides are made equal. When I went, I witnessed an ‘ordinary’ tide, by Mont Saint Michel standards. So the water did come in and out, but the sand around the island was not fully submerged. To see that you need to come during what they call the ‘great tides’ (‘Les Grandes marées’). Those only happen a few days a year.

This video shows how the island looks during a ‘Great Tide.’

Outside the ‘Great Tides,’ bear in mind that the tides are stronger 36 to 48 hours After the Full and New Moon. You can check the Tides calendar here. is worth going at other times? I would.

My ‘ordinary’ tide was still incredible by the standards of any other coasts, and you will still feel part of something impermanent, precious and unique.

Experiencing a tide, large or small, is almost the synthesis and the symbol of the Mont Saint Michel experience.

Mont Saint Michel is about the incredible power of the ocean and the earth, and the sky, when they come together.

It is also one of the places on earth when you will come the closest to experiencing the meaning of impermance. Everything about it constanly changes, not just the tide. The temperature changes, dropping and rising with almost no notice. The wind changes, blowing strong one moment and completely abating the next. The clouds constantly change, gathering and dissipating. In a single afternoon I experienced blistering sunshine, a thunderstorm, a rainbow, blistering winds and a rose-fingered sunset.

Tips for your visit

I mentioned at the start that Mont Saint Michel is busy. But with some careful planning you can still enjoy it peacefully in all its beauty.

Crowds are not the only thing to keep into account when planning your visit, nature is. In part, the key to a successful visit is acceptance. No day, no hour will be the same, You will need to go with the flow – or the tide, I guess!

Here are my top tips for making the most of Mont Saint Michel:

• Decide how long you are going to stay. To truly appreciate Mont Saint Michel, you will need multiple visits, at different times of the day. This is not just to see the tides, it is also because the light really affects the way everything looks. As a minimum, stay overnight so you can see it in different lights, witness a sunrise, a sunset, the moon above the bay, and the changing weather. Also, if you stay a couple of days you can explore the mainland and the bay. You will get incredible views of the island and a taste of Normandy.
• Check the tide schedules before your visit. Sometimes one of the tides is after dark. The abbey will be closed but the walkway is open all night. So while the abbey will be closed you can wander around the village and admire the moon glitter over the water during a night tide!
• Dress for all weathers: Mont Saint Michel is windy. Even in September, it can suddenly feel like winter and you’ll wish you had gloves and a warm hat. The weather is also very changeable, You may walk there in short sleeves and an hour later need an umbrella or a windproof.
• Take your time: I have said this already, but this is not a place to rush through. You will miss its real beauty.
• Don’t go in high season or at peak times: the best times to visit Mont Saint-Michel are during the shoulder seasons (spring and autumn), The days are long, there are fewer crowds, and the weather is not too cold. The ideal months are May-June & September-October. Also try and choose a weekday, and plan to arrive early or late to avoid the coachloads.

How to get to Mont Saint Michel

You can get to Saint Michel by car from anywhere in france. Mont Saint Michel is also easy to reach by public transport, especially from Normandy and Brittany.

By train

The nearest train station is in Pontorson. From Pontorson there are regular buses to Mont Saint Michel.

Year-round, you can get a train Paris Montparnasse to Caen (Normandy), and change for Pontorson there. Alternatively, you can go from Paris Montparnasse to Dol de Bretagne (Brittany), then connect for Pontorson. In summer you have a direct service from Paris Montparnasse to Pontorson.

Alternatively you can go from Paris Montparnasse to Rennes in Brittany, and catch a long distance bus from there.

Check the SNCF website for timetables and booking.

By bus

Keolis Armor offers regular and direct bus connections from Rennes and Saint-Malo. You can check their website here.

A journey inside Mont Saint Michel is a journey inside your soul

I leave you with this reflection. Mont Saint Michel had not started as a pilgrimage, for me. It had started as a desire to witness the tide. What i discovered is something else. It is a place of journeys: from Distance to proximity, from outside the fortress to inside it, from outside the abbey to inside it, from the works of architecture and the nature around you to the inner workings of your soul.

I feel it is one of the places where I have learned the meaning of the world pilgrimage. I kept moving, and discovering, while everything around me kept moving and changing too.

This site has truly touched me, and I hope it will touch you too.

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