In the last few years, Puglia has become a bucket list destination for many people. However, most blogs and travel guides will encourage you to rent a car to explore independently. If you ask other visitors and locals, whereas it makes sense to visit by train, you get quite firm no’s.
As I was coming to Puglia by train from Amsterdam anyway, I tried anyway. It turned out not to be too difficult, and my journey across a half of Europe and Italy’s boot turned it into an adventure of epic proportion.
Here is what I learnt, and what I saw.
Trains to and around Puglia
Puglia is served by Trenitalia high-speed services (Frecce). The most popular route from northern Italy follows the Adriatic coast. The high-speed trains stop at Foggia, Barletta, Bari, Brindisi and Lecce. There are also slower Intercity services, including Intercity Notte that run at night. These could be very useful as you may effectively gain a day of sightseeing. They offer both bookable seats and shared berth – ideal if you travel with a group of people.
On the Tyrrhenian side, there are high-speed and Intercity services from Rome.
Once you arrive in Puglia, you can use the high-speed connections between the largest cities, but mainly you will rely on the slower regionale trains that connect the smaller towns. These affordable services take you to the heart of Puglia, to very authentic locations, riding between olive groves, fields, the hilly interior and the coast. They are a fantastic way to see the country. The only downside is that they will not take you everywhere.
But I knew what I wanted to see, and there were a couple of destinations I could not reach by train. But there were buses, and local drivers. I could make a plan.
I booked the long distance journey from the Netherlands well in advance, using Trainline and ÖBB; particularly as it included a night train between Munich and Bologna. But once I arrived in Puglia, I simply used the Trenitalia app to book local services.
Here is my tried and tested puglia by train and bus itinerary
- Day 1- Arriving and visiting Trani
- Day 2 – Castel Del Monte
- Day 3 – Monopoli
- Day 4 – Polignano a Mare
- Day 5 – Ostuni
- Day 6 – Ceglie Messapica
- Day 7 – Bari
My detailed Puglia by train Itinerary
Day 1 – Arriving in Puglia – Trani
I caught a Freccia high-speed train from Bologna to travelled and changed there for a local train to Trani. After Rimini the train joins the Adriatic coast all the way to Puglia, only turning inland between Termoli and Foggia. So this is a long but really beautiful journey, and a great way to acclimatise.
We arrived in Trani in the afternoon, which gave us enough time to settle into our accommodation – Trani would be our base for the first 2 nights, and explore the ancient, whitewashed city centre.
Trani has no beach in town, but the beach was not the reason I had included it in my itinerary. My dream was to see the cathedral. Not only it is one of Italy’s most beautiful medieval religious buildings, it also has the most scenic setting overlooking the sea. You can read more about the stunning white stone Romanesque cathedral here.
After exploring the cathedral, we also visited the courtyard of the nearby Swabian castle. It would set us in the mood for tomorrow’s journey, a visit to the unique, geometrical wonder of Castel del Monte. You can finish day with a delicious dinner in the picturesque harbour, with a view of the cathedral and the sea.
Day 2: Castel del Monte
Trani is a good base to visit Castel del Monte, the iconic octagonal castle that is one of the official symbols of Puglia.
Castel del Monte has no train station, but you can reach it by from. From Trani, you need to catch a bus to Corato, and change there for another bus to Castel del Monte. The trip takes about one hour and 15 minutes. In the interest of times, we asked our host if he could recommend a reliable taxi service, and we hired a local driver who waited for us in the parking lot.
Castel del Monte is not huge, but if you are passionate about medieval architecture, medieval history and historical mysteries, consider at least a couple of hours to visit.
You will see Catel Del Monte from the distance as you arrive, as it is located on a hilltop, dominating the surrounding countryside. The castle’s isolated position adds to its mystique and makes it a truly impressive sight.
The castle was conceived by Holy Roma Emperor Frederick II, who also happened to be the ruler of Puglia. Frederick was not just a politician, he was a polymath, well-versed in languages, passionate about philosophy and science, and a poet.
An octagonal shape is highly unsual for a medieval castle. This has led to much speculation about its purpose and symbolism, with theories ranging from a hunting lodge to an astronomical observatory to a symbolic representation of the cosmos. Personally, I like the idea that the castel’s design symbolises the imperial crown, which is also an octagonal shape. The dominant position combined with the symbol of medieval rule exhudes an aura of power, as you approach the castle.
When you step in, you will sense you are embarking on a journey. While Frederick’s purpose for the castle remains a mystery, you can appreciate the way it achieves Architectural Harmony despite blending elements from different architectural traditions – classical antiquity, Islamic art, and northern European Gothic architecture.
I have read once that it was a Lay cathedral, and supposed to be visited with a pilgrim’s mindset – a journey into your mind, rather than through the world. You do certainly feel a bit of that was you move through the rooms. Frederick was a lover of Mathematics and Astronomy, and the layout of the building, including the placement of its rooms and windows, seems to have been carefully planned with scientific principles in mind. Some believe it was designed to capture sunlight in specific ways at certain times of the year.
The Material are also carefully chosen, to reflect the elements, as some of the stones are of marine origin, symbolising water. And the sky is basically absorbed into the architecture, both through the astronomical calculations incorporated in the design, as well as through the unique architecture of the castle. When I stepped into the inner courtyard, raised my gaze, and saw the sky framed by the stone octagon of Castel del Monte, it was an unforgettable moment!
Day 3: Monopoli
After Trani, our next stop was Monopoli. The journey is very easy and quick – just over one hour, with a swift change in Bari Centrale.
Monopoli is a quintessential Puglian town with white-washed houses and a bustling fishing port. The train station is located in the new part of town but the walk to the historic centre is easy, and interesting. You go from modern buildings around the station, to the early 19th-century Muratian quarter (Murat, Napoleon’s general who ruled Puglia for a few years, went on quite a building spree in Monopoli) to the medieval white washed rock houses of the historic centre, a maze of delightful cobbled streets,
Monopoli is a great base to explore other nearby attractions, and you can also combine half days on the beach, either in town or at Capitolo Beach – reachable by bus -, with sightseeing.
The city centre is so delightful you are treated to beauty at every turn. There is a majestic element to Monopoli, visible in the vast Baroque cathedral, dominating the town, in its solid and tall defensive walls, and its 16th-century castle. This constrast with the proportions and grace of the maze of cobbled streets of the Old town. If you stay a few days you will have the opportunity to savour the little corner, the unexpected charm of a shop or a front door, the marble paving of some of its ancient streets.
I love the little squares that appear out of nowhere like treasure boxes. The cathedral is impressive, but I was even more fascinated by the atmosphere of its ancient Bizantine rock-cut churches, that reminded me of Cappadocia – or nearby Matera.
The beating art of the town is Piazza XX Settembre, with its relaxed coffee shops and restaurants, where you can watch the world go by.
Passing under an archway outside the castle, you will arrive in the port, comprised by a series of little harbours. busy with fishermen mending their nets or unloading the day’s catch,
The other highlight, in summer, is having a beach right by the historic centre. You can literally go for a swim after your evening passeggiata, under a full moon!
Day 4: Polignano a Mare
Polignano a Mare is on the same train line as Monopoli, and only 13 minutes away, so we visited as a day trip.
Its charming old town is perched on cliffs overlooking the Adriatic Sea, and there are fanstastic views of the Adriatic at every turn. Under the town, the sea has carved the rock into caves, and some of them have been turned into bars and restaurants, such as the famous Grotta Palazzese. You can book a boat trip to explore other caves and coves.
As you wander through the centre you will come across the statue of local celebrity Domenico Modugno, the singer of the Italian classic ‘Volare.’
All roads seem to lead to one of Puglia’s most stunning Places, the dramatic beach of Lama Monachile, nestled between towering cliffs. Spanned by a bridge which connects the cliffs, it is one of the most unique beaches I have ever seen,
We got there at about midday, and although it was incredibly beautiful, it was also busy. Try and go early or late – on in low season – to get great photos of the beach when it is uncrowded.
If you are looking to witness a unique Polignano experience, the locals do dive off the cliffs into the Lama Monachile waters.
Day 5: Ostuni
Known as La Città Bianca (The White City), Ostuni is another hilltop town with a dazzling array of whitewashed buildings.
It is about 20 minutes south of Monopoli by Regionale train. A word of warning: The train station is actually not in the Old town, so you will need to make your way there. There are buses, or you can catch a taxi if you do not want to wait and/or are short of time.
If your idea of Puglia is gorgeous white-washed towns, Ostuni is the ultimate prize. A day spent exploring its delightful maze of winding streets is a real treat. It is not only the architecture that confers Ostuni its magic. The panoramic views of the Adriatic coast are simply breathtaking.
Like Monopoli, Ostuni has a cathedral that feels larger than life in relation to the town. The cathedral is on the highest hill and therefore the ultimate Ostuni viewpoint. It is also a beautiful medievla building in serene sun-filled stone.
Day 6: Ceglie Messapica
No trip to Puglia would be complete without a taste of the Valle d’Itria, where the distinctive trulli houses with their conical roofs are to be found.
For my trullo experience I chose Ceglie Messapica over the more famous Alberobello, because it has a reputation for its exceptional food, and given the standard in Puglia is so high, I wanted to try their highest.
Ceglie does not have the seaside setting or views of the towns I had visited so far. It is surrounded by Olive groves, so it has a different kind of poetry. But is another beautiful old town, with charming houses and cobbled streets. I sound repetitive, but if you try Puglia you will realise it is not. Everywhere you go, it will be white-washed houses and cobbled streets, but it will all feel different. The setting, the nature surrounding these towns, make them different, and so do the architectural features – a castle here, a cathedral there. It feels familiar, but remains unique.
There is a bus connection between Ostuni and Ceglie, so you can visit from Ostuni if you go on a day trip. However, our trullo was outside the centre, so we asked our trullo host to organise a pick up. However, if you stay in Ceglie itself, you can definitely rely on public transport.
Day 7: Bari
Bari, Puglia’s vibrant capital., used to have a reputation for seediness, but it has really come into its own in recent years. I was unsure I was going to like it so I decided to just spend only a single day there, but frankly I should have stayed longer. It surpassed my expectations.
The walk from the station will take you through the elegant and Palm-fringed modern (by Italian standard) Bari, with elegant 19th century buildings and contemporay eateries. AS you near the old town, things change. The labyrinthine maze of Bari Vecchia (Old Bari) is a delight.
the Romanesque Basilica di San Nicola, the patron Saint of Bari, is deservedly famous. Not only it houses the relics of St. Nicholas, but it is a significant pilgrimage site for both Catholics and Orthodox Christians, which makes it quite special – a place of unity rather than division..
I also enjoyed the lively area around Piazza Mercantile, with its historic buildings and Cafes. Although I didn’t biu any, I was fascinated by the old ladies sitting outside their houses making orecchiette by hand. Bari still has an authentic, ‘artisanal’ vibe that is so often lacking in popular tourist destinations.
We also walked the magnificent city walls. THey offer panoramic views of the sea and the harbour, and also, on a summer afternoon, shade, sea breeze, and respite from the heat of the old town.
With one additional day, I would have loved to visit the Castello Svevo (Swabian Castle), originally norman but reworked by Frederick the Second, the builder of Castel del Monte. It will be for next time! Chatting to my host, made me realise that it is a great city to visit in winter too. The days will be shorter, but It will not be crowded, and the Puglian light will be there to chase the winter gloom away. Besides, celebrating Santa Claus in its most important cathedral would feel quite appropriate. By the way, there is a San Nicola feast in early December! Check visitBari for details.
Would I visit Puglia by train again?
Most definitely! I feel like I only scratched the surface, and there are many more destinations I can explore without the hassle of a car. Local trains are also incredibly reasonably priced in Puglia, so if you ended needed a taxi here or there it will not hurt your budget too much.
I also feel like these local trains really brought me closer to people and allowed me to experience Puglia in a more authentic way.
I hope you enjoyed this post. For more travel inspiration, sign up to my blog. I post once a week.
You must be logged in to post a comment.