Discover Maggiore: a stunning lake between Italy and Switzerland

Nestled between the Italian and Swiss Alps, Lake Maggiore is a thing of beauty. Every time I drive to Italy, no matter what the season is, I know that when I hit its shores I will be in heaven. The weather is often sunny, the water of the lake and the sky compete for the bluest blue, and the vegetation is luxuriant. Along the lake shore, the the sun is shining, and the tranquil waters of the lake, surrounded by greenery and dotted with elegant villas, with the outline of Alpine peaks in the distance, is postcard-perfect.

During the era of the Grand Tour. Lake Maggiore was probably more popular than lake Como. The likes of Lord Byron, Shelley, and Goethe were drawn to its romantic charm. Even Napoleon and Josephine stayed. After the development of the Simplon Tunnel, which shortened the journey between Italy and Switzerland, the Victorians flocked to the lake too. Hemingway visited, and fell in love with Stresa, the pearl of the lake.

Lake Maggiore became a haven for artists and intellectuals, and for the European nobility. Today, the proximity to Milan makes Lakes Como more popular. Yet, lake Maggiore’s timeless elegance attracts a more discreet kind of crowd, looking for a blend of historical grandeur and lakeside relaxation, discovering its artistic, architectural, and natural treasures, or lured by the many activities possible in this incredible corner of Italy, from hiking to cycling to boating.

Did I mention that a part of Lake Maggiore is Swiss? That adds to the fascination. Get on a ferry or tourist boat on lake Maggiore and you can cross the border in the water, discovering two countries at once!

Reaching Lake Maggiore from Italy and Switzerland:

Getting to Lake Maggiore is very easy, whether you’re arriving from Switzerland or Italy. I even visited by train from London! The views once you enter Switzerland are so incredible, this is one of my favourite train journeys in Europe.

Getting there from Switzerland:

• By Train:
  • From major Swiss cities like Zurich or Bern, take a train to Locarno or Ascona. Both are located on the Swiss side of Lake. You can book through Trainline.
• By Car:
  • Follow the motorway to Lugano and turn off at Bellinzona, following signs for Locarno. If you stay off the motorway and follow the Strada Statale del Lago, you will find yourself in Italy, travelling along the lake. It is one of the most beautiful drives I have ever done..

Getting there from Italy:

• By Train:
  • Milan’s central train station (Milano Centrale) offers frequent direct trains to Arona, Verbania and Stresa, with a direct TreNord service. The journey is relatively short, typically lasting between one to one and a half hours. You can book on Trainline or Raileurope.
  • If you fancy a longer but incredibly scenic journey, the Centovalli Railway, a narrow-gauge line, is a particularly picturesque option to reach the Swiss side of Lake Maggiore. Catch a train from Milano Centrale to Domodossola, and in Domodossa catch a Centovalli service to Locarno. You will ride through alpine valleys, waterfalls, and charming villages.
• By Car:
  • You can get to Lake Maggiore by car Via Milano or Torino. If you aim for Arona, which is at the bottom of the lake, you can then choose if you want to explore the Lombardy or Piedmont side.

Getting around

You can get around easily by public transport, using trains for the main stations, long distance buses (the main hub for those is Verbania) and in the warmer months even ferries! You can travel by ferry from the piedmontese to the Lombard side of the lake, and from north to south. Check the Navigazione Laghi website for details.

Also, for the more adventurous or simply if you have more time, I want to mention a wonderful initiative undertaken by some local residents. They have studied a walking path that goes all around the lake, called Cammino del Lago Maggiore. Once a year they do an organised path that you can join. At other times, you can use their handy maps and walk the route on your own. It is divided in 11 sections – each walkable in a day. So based on where you are, you can try at least one day of hiking between the many pearls of this lake! The site is only in Italian, but the maps are easy enough to follow.

Exploring Lake Maggiore’s Treasures

From Locarno on the Swiss northern shore to Arona in the south, Lake Maggiore is scattered with charming towns and villages. There are also two clusters of islands in the middle, the tiny Brissago islets in the Swiss part, and the Isole Borromee in the the middle of the Lake. The villages and the islands are all beautiful and full of unique character.

Here are some of my favourite places to visit on Lake Maggiore.

Italy Maggiore Highlights:

1. Stresa

Rightly known as the “Pearl of Lake Maggiore,” Stresa is an elegant town with beautiful turn-of-the-century villas, lush gardens, and stunning views of the Borromean Islands.

The lakeside promenade is perfect for a walk and to soak in the beauty of the water, the islets scattered like jewels across the blue, and the alpine backdrop. Many historic hotels facades overlook the lake shore. They all saw famous visitors from the 18th century onwards – from Dickens to Flaubert. the Grand Hotel des Iles Borromees, is where Hemingway recovered from a WWI injury and wrote A Farewell to Arms. You can still sleep in the Hemingway suite, and admire the lake just like he did!

Stresa has interesting surroundings and people are very welcoming – probably because, despite its beauty, it is not as overcrowded as other famous lakes. There is plenty to do, from a leisurely break of swimming, suntanning and Italian food, to activities for all tastes and levels of fitness. You can hike up the steep hill behind it, rent a bycicle, of simply go on a leisurely walk admiring the villas and the gardens.

The main draw, though, are the Borromean Islands – the 3 magical islets in the middle of the water. You cannot go to stresa and not visit them!

2. The Borromean Islands: Isola Bella

As the name suggests, Isola Bella is gorgeous, both in architectural and natural terms Its primary attraction is the Palazzo Borromeo, a magnificent Baroque palace that occupies a large part of the islands. Its rooms are old-world opulence, with tapestries, and antique furniture, and windows opening on to the blue. Napoleon famously stayed there during his Italian campaign, and you can still visit the room where he slept.

The water level grottos are so incredible they remind me of Gaudi or Dali. They are a series of inter-connected rooms wtih walls, ceilings, and floors adorned with pebbles, shells, marble, and fragments of volcanic rock. This is where the Borromeo family used to escape the summer heat.

However, the true magic of Isola Bella lies in its gardens.

Their lovingly manicured terraces cascade down towards the lake, creating a Choreography of vibrant colours and intricate designs. Walking among Statues, fountains, and exotic flora you will feel like you have stepped into a dream. and nothing prepares you for Teatro Massimo – a dramatic amphitheatre overlooking the lake.

Beyond the palace and gardens, the island itself is a charming place to explore. its small small village lined with quaint shops and cafes.

4. The Borromean Islands: Isola Madre

Isola Madre (the ‘mother’ island) is the largest of the Borromean Islands. Just like on Isola Bella, the heart of the island is a Palazzo built for the Borromeo family.

But the similarities end there. The Palazzo itself is less elaborate than its counterpart on Isola Bella. The gardens are vast and magnificent, sprawling across the island. Flaubert called them ‘the most voluptuous place in the world,’ and if you wander through them you will soon understand why. The local flora of oleander and hibiscus flourish alongside exotic plants and flowers, from magnolias to bamboos, azaleas to rhododendrons.

Adding to the sense of enchantment, colorful pheasants and peacocks roam free, creating a peaceful, natural atmosphere.

5. The Borromean Islands: Isola dei Pescatori

Isola dei Pescatori (Fisherman’s Island), with its narrow streets and traditional fishing village atmosphere, offers a glimpse into the lake’s past.

The island church was originally built in the 11th century, which gives you a clear indication of the long history of the place. The lack of grand palaces or elaborate gardens creates a more intimate and lived-in feel. The main attraction on Isola dei Pescatori is simply wandering through its winding alleyways. flanked by colorful houses, adorned with flower-filled balconies and laundry hanging out to dry. Most of them still belong to the local fishermen. You may seem them returning with their catch, or spot their fishing boats bobbing in the water.

Visitors tend to come at meal time, to enjoy the traditional fare served at its waterside restaurants. However, Unlike the private Isola Madre and Isola Bella, this island also offers accommodation, if you want to experience the magic of the lake from the middle of it! Thanks to its authentic charm. Isola dei Pescatori is a great place to spend a couple of days, soaking in the unhurried pace of island living.

6. Verbania and Villa Taranto

The first time I went to Verbania, we only visited the Villa Taranto Botanical Gardens, on the oustkirts of town. Not only they are stunning, but they have a romantic history. They were created by a Scottish Captain, Neil Boyd McEacharn, who fell in love with the area, bought the villa in the 1930’s and set out to and created an incredible collection of plants from all over the world. He is now buried in his gardens!

Verbania is quite large by lake maggiore’s standards, and has various districts. It boasts an elegant lakeside promenade, and some interesting buildings such as the fascinating Renaissance church of Church of Madonna della Campagna. Amongst the many stunning villas, a special mention goes to Villa Giulia, that used to belong to the founder of the Fernet Branca liqueur company. It is now owned by the municipality and its lakefront gardens are open to the public. It often hosts exhibitions and cultural events.

Intra, with a more industrial feel, still retains charm with its old town center and the Church of San Vittore.

Near Verbania, you can also explore the Val Grande National Park, a wilderness area with rugged landscapes and quite challenging hiking trails.

7. Arona

Located on the southern shore, Arona has an interesting historic centre with a beautiful medieval square and a lovely lakeside promenade. I stopped there in December, and the square was beautifully decorated and felt truly magical.

The historic centre, with its narrow streets and historic houses, is extremely pretty.

The long Lakeside Promenade (Lungolago) is a real highlight. Perfect for a relaxing stroll, it offers beautiful views of the Lombard side of the lake and the Rocca di Angera.

Perched on a mountain at the town’s entrance is the Arona castle. This once mighty fortress is now a ruin, but its position makes it very atmospheric.

Being at the southernmost tip of the lake, Arona is an ideal base if you want to explore the lake by ferry. The Porto di Arona connects you with both the Piedmontese and Lombard side, and even with Switzerland.

8. Angera

Angera is located on the Lombardy side of Lake Maggiore, directly across from Arona. Its main draw is the impressive Rocca di Angera (Angera Castle), which dominates the town.

The castle is owned by the Borromeo family – the owners of Isola Bella and Isola Madre, so you know what to expect. The gardens are stunning and offer beautiful views of the lake, and the elegant rooms are furnished with period pieces, offering an insight into the lives of the Borromeo family. Given the castle’s panoramic position, the views of the opposite shore and Arona are magnificent. The main highlight, in my opinion, is the
Medieval Frescoes in the Sala di Giustizia (Hall of Justice), considered some of the most important examples in Italy.

From Angera you can also visit the beautiful Hermitage of Santa Caterina del Sasso, with a scenic lakefront location. I have not been yet, it is still on my bucket list!

Switzerland Maggiore Highlights:

9. Locarno

nestled on the northern shore of Lake Maggiore in the Swiss Canton Ticino, Locarno is one of the pearls of the Swiss side of the lake – a haven for nature lovers as well as culture lovers.

Sandwiched between mountains and water, it is a great base for hiking and cycling as well as swimming. It is also rich in history. Canton Ticino used to be ruled by the Visconti – the lords of Milan, and while ticino’s historic capital was nearby Bellinzona, Locarno was graced wiht a beautiful castle. The Castello Visconteo, on the edge of the charming Old Town, now houses an archaeological museum.

The heart of town is Piazza Grande, the large pebbled square that hosts various events, from the Christmas market to the Locarno Film Festival in August.

Locarno is also home to prestigious art galleries,such as Collezione Ghisla which specialises in contemporary art.

For me, one of the highlights of Locarno is a hike from the centre of Locarno to the Madonna del Sasso, a sanctuary built on a rocky outcrop above the city. Locarno’s ‘Holy Mountain’ is also reachable by funicular, but as I love good old-fahioned pilgrimages on foot and a hike is a wonderful way to appreciate the deep connection between the sanctuary buildings and the land they are built on.

The structure consists of a church dedicated to the Annunciation at the foot of the mountain, connected to the rocktop santuary by a Via Crucis. Once you reach the top, you will be treated to spectacular views of the lake, the mountains, and the roofs of Locarno.

As mentioned above, Locarno is also the starting point for one of the most beautiful European mountain train rides – the Centovalli between Locarno and Domodossola. You will ride through deeply forested valleys that will transport you back in time, immersing yourself in the colours and smells of the season, and can get off at many intermediate stops to access different hiking locations.

10. Ascona

Ascona is simply beautiful. When we arrived there at lunchtime in December the light was strong and summery, and the like glistened, inviting you in – although the water was cold!

It is a picturesque town with a colorful waterfront promenade (Lungolago). The first thing I noticed was the originality of their Christmas decorations.

Ascona is known for its artistic heritage and bohemian atmosphere. The narrow streets of the Borgo (village) are filled with art galleries, boutiques, and restaurants. As you would expect from such a creative little town, there is a Museo Comunale d’Arte Moderna, where you can enjoy appreciate local and international art, including works by Paul Klee and Herman Hesse.

One of the great attractions of Ascona is the Monte Verità (Hill of Truth). Here, in the early twentieth century, a group of utopian intellectuals founded a colony whose residents followed a philosophy of return to nature, vegetarianism, nudism, and theosophy. Over the years, the colony welcomed writers Hermann Hesse and E.M. Remarque. From the 1930’s. Monte Verità became the seat of the Eranos conferences, which included regular talks by Carl Gustav Jung until 1951. The “friends of Eranos” still hold conferences here from time to time.

From Ascona you can also reach the tiny Brissago Islands. The largest of these 2 islands has a subtropical botanical garden.

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Lake Maggiore is one of Italy’s and Switzerland’s ultimate wonders, and not as visited as nearby Lake Como. Go off season and on weekdays and you will literally have the place to yourself!

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