Most people flying into Cagliari airport, or arriving at its ferry terminal, tend to head straight out of the city – to discover the fabulous beaches or the rugged charms of inland Sardinia. For the first time, I managed to fit in a couple of days in the city itself. It is well worth it.
Want to make the most of your day in Cagliari? Here is my introduction to the city’s history, my itinerary, and tips.
A short history of Cagliari
The regional capital of Sardinia, Cagliari, is one of Italy’s most ancient cities.
Archaeological findings suggest the first inhabitants were the indigenous nuraghi civilisation. But seafaring Phoenicians knew a good site when they saw one. With easy access to the sea, yet surrounded by marshes on two sides and with a rocky outcrop perfect for the population to retreat to in case of attacks, Cagliari would make the perfect base on the trade route between Africa, Sicily, Spain, and southern France.
Soon part of the sphere of influence of Carthage, it fell to the Romans at the end of the First Punic War, While the Carthaginians had settled mainly the port area, the Romans focused their attention on fortifying the rocky outcrop next to it. This part of Cagliari, now the Castello district, remains the heart of the city to this day.
When the western Roman empire fell apart in the late 5th century, the city was conquered by the Vandals and then the Byzantines. In the following centuries, the Byzantines struggled to control the most remote parts of their sprawling empire, and the arrivals of the Arabs in North Africa tipped the scale. With the pressure of Moor pirate raids and potential conquest intensifying, the Sardinians had to fend for themselves. As a result, the island grew progressively independent and effectively self-governed as a group of four giudicati, one of which had Cagliari as its capital.
The giudicati themselves were a remarkable form of government, with a leader (judge) as head of state who had to operate in consultation with parliament. They also had their own legislation, written in local languages rather than Latin – unusual at the time – so that the people could understand it.
Remarkably for medieval times, quite a few women succeeded their fathers as judges and played an important political role.
Gradually, the southern part of Sardinia fell under Pisan influence. The Tuscan maritime power eventually conquered Cagliari in 1258. The impact of Pisan culture is visible in the splendid Duomo, which seems like a miniature version of Pisa’s, and in the fortifications of the Castello district.
In the 14th century, the Aragonese arrived, and Sardinia was made a kingdom, held by the king of Aragon, and governed locally by a viceroy. When Aragon and Castilla merged, Sardinia became part of the Spanish empire. In the early 18th century, at the end of the War of the Spanish Succession, Cagliari and the rest of the island were handed over to the Savoy dynasty, the rulers of Piedmont. Remarkably, although the centre of their rule was Turin, until the unification of Italy, the Savoy called themselves Kings of Sardinia.
How to get to Cagliari
If you fly into Cagliari Elmas airport, there are frequent and very affordable trains that take you to the town centre in under 10 minutes!
If you arrive by ferry, the ferry terminal is across the road from the city centre.
How long Should you spend in Cagliari?
I had the luck of being shown around by my great friend Stefano, who is a real Cagliaritano. That made my time in Cagliari great, as we balanced cultural discovery with leisurely food stops and time at a beach club for the ultimate Cagliari experience. Also, as I didn’t have to spend time checking things out on Google Maps or asking for directions, I really maximised my time.
If you go on your own, I’d say 24 hours is the minimum time I’d recommend spending in Cagliari. 48 hours is even better, as it gives you the opportunity to do more exploring in the centre and visit the city’s museums – or fit in time on the beach too.
Did you know that Cagliari has a 2 km-long city beach? It is to the east of the centre, and you may need to jump on a bus – from Via Roma, the main thoroughfare along the sea, but it is truly remarkable, and busy at all times of day and night.
My friend tells me that you can eat at the beach clubs even in winter, and go for a walk along the sea before or after!
24 hours in Cagliari
Now, here are the city highlights I included in my Cagliari whirlwind 24-hour itinerary:
1. Explore Castello District
Castello is the heart of Roman and medieval Cagliari. Its name means ‘castle’, and you can still spot sections of the fortified walls and medieval towers, including the famous Torre dell’Elefante. This Pisan tower with an elephant sculpture still has a threatening portcullis.
Castello is a fascinating neighbourhood of cobbled streets, steps (prepare for some healthy climbing, arches, gateways, and colourful houses. There aren’t many trees in the medieval centre, but occasionally a little square will open in front of you like a treasure box, and an oleander or palm tree appears, as if out of nowhere.
And some of the cobbled streets are scattered with plant pots, dots of green against the pastel of the houses.
Some parts may feel more rundown, but in this age of overtourism, it is beautiful to be in a city where not everything is perfect and monetised. Cagliari is, and feels, authentic, and you will appreciate it even more in its most ancient district.
Did I forget to mention the incredible views from the top? You’ll take in the marina, the blue sea, the mountains hugging the city in the distance, and the saltpans dotted with flamingos (once you have trained your eyes to see them).
2. Relax with the memory of literary greats at Antico Caffè
Paris has Les Deux Magots and Café de Flore. The Italian and European intelligentsia of the 19th and 20th centuries used to hang out at Antico Caffè.
Facing a small and leafy square, at the bottom of Castello, across the road from Bastion San Remy, this is a lovely place to indulge in delicious pastries and watch the world go by. Caffè freddo (iced coffee) comes in a decadent cocktail glass.
3. Climb up Bastione San Remy
Once you have hydrated and your caffeine has kicked in, it is time to climb the Bastione San Remy. This neoclassical bastion in the centre of town is one of Cagliari’s most recognisable landmarks.
Its geometrical yet soft shape softens the majesty of its shape, inviting you up the hill. A lovely patch of grass with palms gives you some shade and respite halfway through on a hot day. When you get to the top, you’ll be forgiven for wondering if you have been transported to a subtropical Paris. The top of the bastion is effectively a vast square, with elegant lamplights so similar to those in front of the Parisian Hotel de Ville.
But the sweeping vistas will dissipate the doubt. The whole of Cagliari and its Bay of Angels lies around you, the green of the hills and the blue of the sea intensifying the blinding white of the paving under your feet,
4. Visit the cathedral
I am a big fan of cathedrals, but the one in Cagliari genuinely blew me away. Let’s start with the exterior. such a delicate recreation of the original Pisan facade that you could slip into Piazza dei Miracoli, and it would feel perfectly at home.
The elegant, blinding white exterior is the introduction to an incredibly colourful interior, with remarkable proportions, beautiful medieval Pisan sculptures blending with Aragonese features, such as the mausoleum of King Martin of Aragon.
The baroque crypt excavated in the rock on the orders of 17th-century Spanish Archbishop De Esquivel, is truly remarkable, with a majestic staircase leading to a 3-nave space with colourful stuccoed and painted ceilings.
As for the walls, they are decorated with terracotta statues of local martyrs. It is truly a magnificent space, different from any other crypt I have ever seen!
5. Visit the Orto Botanico
To appreciate how green Cagliari can be, you need to step out of the cobbled alleyways of Castello. The Botanical Gardens (Orto Botanico) on the flank of the Castello mountain is perfect for escaping the summer heat. Exotic, rare, and local plants share the space with Roman statues and relics – this part of town is also where the well-to-do Romans used to live!
Next door to the Orto Botanico, the Anfiteatro Romano is no Colosseo. But it was cut out of the rock of the hillside, and its setting is very atmospheric.
6. Dinner (or breakfast, or aperitivo) with a view
With a panoramic terrace overlooking the whole Bay of Angels at the top of Castello, Libarium Nostrum was recommended to me as the ultimate aperitivo with a view spot in central Cagliari.
We turned up without a booking, straight from the airport after my evening flight – not recommended! Luckily, someone had just cancelled, but do try and book in advance if you plan on going. The plan was to have an aperitivo there and then head somewhere else for dinner, but the food looked so appetising we decided to stay on and try their food. It was as good as it looked, and if you cannot fit it in your itinerary for dinner, you can pop in for breakfast or lunch instead.
The prices are high by Cagliari’s standards, but if you come from London, they are what you’d pay for a pub meal, so you will treat yourself without really breaking the bank.
There are plenty of other more budget-friendly options in the vicinity, where the food seemed just as fantastic, so you will be spoiled for choice in Castello, no matter where you book. And the gelaterie looked amazing!
If you go up that side of Castello during the day time, make sure you stop on the terrace and look down towards the airport. You will make out salt marshes dotted by pink shapes in the distance. It is hard to see them from so far, but they are one of the local colonies of pink flamingos!
7. Lunch or dinner on Poetto Beach
My friend Stefano is a regular of Oasi Cafè on Poetto beach, so this is where he took us on the final night, A sunset stroll on the beach, a quick swim – the water was very warm – to shrug off the efforts of sightseeing during a heatwave, and then aperitivo and Sardinian malloreddus at dusk.
On a summer weekend, Poetto is incredibly busy, there are people partying on the beach until the early hours, and buses into the centre run into the early hours.
If you do not have a car, familiarise yourself with the bus timetable because taxis are hard to come by and charge you a big extra for pick-up.
8. Catch a glimpse of the flamingos
Flamingos are one of the iconic symbols of Sardinia. The salt marshes around Cagliari are home to quite a few colonies of these beautiful birds. The most important of these colonies, the Parco di Molentargius, sits right behind the long stretch of sand of Poetto beach.
I have seen flamingos before during other stays in Sardinia, but they are a sight that always fill me with joy and awe. Besides, Montelargius is apparently the only place in the world where flamingos nest in what is, in effect, an almost urban environment.
It is beautiful to see these beautiful animals coexist with joggers and cyclists! If I had had an extra day, I would have loved to follow one of the trails and spend some time exploring the reserve. But the day was almost at an end!
What makes Cagliari special?
Other visitors have compared Cagliari to Barcelona because it is the main Mediterranean city with an urban beach. I agree, and I can see that.
For me, Cagliari is a cocktail of Bari and Paris. A beautiful southern port town, breathing and living the Mediterranean, still authentic, with stunning and unexpected architecture, from Romanesque to art deco. The vistas are unique: sea views, mountain views, and characterful city views.
Besides, name another city where you can see flamingos in the wild! Cagliari is a place where nature seeps into the town, blending into its architectural magic.
As for Cagliari food, Italy has so many regional gastronomic traditions, but Sardinia certainly treats the visitor to one of its best incarnations. From fresh fish and seafood, to stunning goat and sheep cheese (pecorino), from cured meats to memorable and unique pasta shapes and fillings. Desserts are indulgent and again really original, and local wines and spirits like mirto are a real treat.
Even writing about Cagliari makes me want to go back, and my friend just told me he can put me up for longer next year, so that is what I will do!
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