Italy’s most scenic train trips

Planning to visit Italy? Make sure you include at least one scenic train journey. It will be one of the most memorable moments of your trip!

From Alpine valleys to the rolling hills of central Italy to seaside stretches by the glittering waters of the Mediterranean, Italy offers an incredible variety of scenic rides. These trips often happen to be part of the rail routes between some of Italy’s landmarks or cities. So, you may be able to incorporate them effortlessly into your travels. Just ditch the car and the plane and trust the railtracks of Italy to surprise you with some magnificent landscapes!

travelling through Italy by train

Before moving to London, I used to travel through Italy by train quite regularly. Quite frankly, I never understood why people use the car to go from city centre to city centre when there is a train connection available. Besides, the train is often the most stress-free way to travel through Italy. You do not have to deal with traffic on the motorway, or struggle to find parking, or worry about your car.

When my Australian relatives asked me for advice on organising their first ever trip to Italy, my first tip was NOT to rent a car. In many cases, a train trip through Italy turns out to be, at least in part, a holiday within the holiday, a journey through some of the most amazing landscapes Europe has to offer.

This post will cover the reasons why you should consider train trips as part of your journey through Italy, and share with you my favourite scenic rides, to tempt you to fit train excursions into your Italian holidays.

1: Why travel through Italy by train?

The geography of Italy helps making train rides memorable. Apart from the vast Pianura Padana in the north, Italy is a landscape of mountains and hills, and in one hour you could be going from the Mediterranean coastline to the Apennines or even the Alps! Castles, towers, abbeys, cathedrals and majestic country residences are never far away from your rail tracks.

Now that I live in London, I see my Italian train journeys as real treats, precious moments of mindful travel. I lose myself in the view from my window and discover something new and magical.

Italy has a well designed and growing network of fast trains, which makes trains a sustainable alternative to domestic flights. The fast services are provided by Trenitalia (Frecce) and Italo. The latter also offers connecting coaches to take passengers to tourist destinations not on the high speed network such as Mantova or Matera). For a holistic view, check trainline where you can book trains from both companies.

Italians are rediscovering slow travel, using the Trenitalia Regionale train network, normally the preserve of commuters, to enjoy the landscape at a less hurried pace. The Regionale network also allows bikes on board, so you can combine magnificent train journeys with fitness and bike exploration.

At the moment there is serious investment into the new concept of ‘Treni Turistici,’ that allow night connections between different parts of the peninsula (Rome to Cortina as an example), and for the revamped express ‘Espresso’ train services, which repurpose vintage carriages from the 80’s to take travellers to discover more remote parts of the country.

In short, a scenic train ride through Italy is sustainable, easy to organise, and allows you to discover the beauty of the country from the comfort of your seat.

Now, without further ado, Here are ten scenic train trips spanning the width and breadth of Italy.

2: My top ten most scenic train trips in Italy

Before we start, let me share my principles for including a ride in the guide. I have tried to include varied landscapes, from the Alps to the seas, from north to south, and some of Italy’s most famous cityscapes. In some cases, the route is so incredibly beautiful that it makes sense to get off, explore and resume your journey!

1. Bologna to Florence
2. Verona to Brennero
3. Milano to Stresa
4. Florence to Rome
5. La Spezia to Monterosso
6. Merano to Malles
7. Rimini to Lecce
8. Circumetnea
9. Circumvesuviana
10. Bernina Express

1. Bologna to Florence

The hilltop sanctuary of San Luca and the medieval towers of Bologna fade into the distance, and the train climbs its way up the Apennines. You will spot spot castles and villages in the distance, and if it is winter there may be snow on the peaks.

As you cross into Tuscany and the chestnut trees and deciduous forests of northern Italy give way to peaceful cypress or olive-streaked hills. Abbeys and Tuscan-style green and white marble churches begin to appear and as the train approaches Florence you will make out Brunelleschi’s dome from the distance. And all this is included in your train ticket!

If you book a high speed train this is a 40 minutes journey. I recommend the Regionale if you are not in a rush, You will change in Prato, but the train goes slower so you have more time to take in the views.

The Bologna route is a classic example of the gift Italian train trips can yield for you. A journey I love, but that I have not seen listed as an highlight on many travel guides to Italy.

2. Verona to Brennero

This has to be one of my favourite trips on earth. If you leave fair Verona and travel north, you will not feel short-changed for beauty. The river Adige valley is steeped in history, from the Romans to the travels of Holy Roman emperors, pilgrims and traders on their way to Rome or Venice.

And the remainders of that history are all around you, in the many mountaintop castles that watch trains riding past in the valley below them. Parts of the journey follow the river Adige, others are amongst vine-covered hills or apple orchard, and the Dolomites soon appear to make the journey absolutely magical.

The picturesque medieval town of Ala, famed for its silk and velvet, loved by Mozart; Rovereto with its mighty fortress; the provincial capital of Trento, the wine-producing areas of Mezzocorona and Ora, the other provincial capital of Bolzano, Ponte Gardena, gateaway to one of the most celebrated Dolomites valley, the ancient castle town of Chiusa, the medieval bishopric of Bressanone with its elegant palaces and churches. After Fortezza, famous for its Haubsburg fortress, the altitude increases and more medieval castles at Campo di Trens, Vipiteno, and Colle Isarco escort you all the way to Brennero.

There are no high-speed trains yet on this route, and I am grateful for it. You do not want this journey to end!

3. Milano to Domodossola via Stresa

When you leave the centre of Milano and reach the suburbs, you will be wondering if I have lost my mind. There is nothing scenic about the first part of this trip. This is a case of delayed gratification.

When you hit Arona, on Lake Maggiore, you will be repaid. The train then follows the western shore of the lake, stopping at Stresa and Verbania, before turning inland and following the river Ossola all the way to the swiss border. From the train you will admire the Isole Borromee, the 3 tiny islands that decorate the middle of lake Maggiore like jewels.

If you have time, get off and explore at least one of Arona, Stresa and Verbania to experience these delightful little cities, with their turn of century grand mansions (Lake Maggiore was one of the Grand Tour destinations, loved by anyone from Dickens to Hemingway) and getting on one of the very reasonable boat services to the Isole Borromee. For an in-depth guide to Lake Maggiore, check this post.

You can return to Milan after your tour or continue to Domodossola, from where you can change for a Swiss train to Brig. You will riding through an alpine area that feels like a green canyon, with just enough room for the river and the railway tracks, and cross the Simplon tunnel. For an overview of the two-country journey between Milano and Geneva, check my post.

In autumn a special ‘foliage train‘ connects Domodossola and Locarno, on the Swiss side of Lake Maggiore.

It takes a maximum of One and a half hour from Milano to Stresa and just 20 minute longer to Domodossola. Check Trenitalia or Trainline for options. If you are planning to get off at one of the intermediate stops, do buy a ticket from Milan to the first stop, and then from there to Domodossola.

4. Florence to Rome

Get a map out before you start this journey. You will be riding through Tuscany’s history. Siena in the distance and the Val d’Orcia, the classic Tuscany of your postcards and your dreams, the papal utopian-city of Pienza, Montepulciano, the Etruscan then Roman thermal centres of Chianciano and San Casciano.

You leave the Siena lands behind just to enter another of the most magnificent landscapes in Italy, the provinces of Grosseto (Tuscany), Terni (Umbria) and Viterbo (Latium). Tuff and lava hill-top villages, crowned by often over-sized churches such as Orvieto’s Duomo, remind you that you are on your way to the Eternal City. In different seasons, poppies, sunflowers and lavender dot the fields.

You can do this trip with a high-speed train (One and a half hours). If you want to get off at one of the intermediate stops you will need an Intercity or Regionale train. You will double the travelling time but can visit Orvieto, Chianciano, Cortona, Arezzo, Castiglione del Lago. They are all beautiful towns steeped in history and surrounded by beautiful nature.

5. La Spezia to Monterosso

This short trip (28 minutes) takes you through the UNESCO-Heritage area of the Cinqueterre National Park.

‘Cinqueterre’ means ‘five lands,’ and each land has a delightful pastel-coloured village at its core, either stretched around a bay or perched on top of a mountain. Railway tracks run behind and above the villages, so you’ll get panoramic views all the way.

Each of the villages (Riomaggiore, Monterosso, Vernazza, Corniglia and Manarola) has a distinct atmosphere.

Monterosso boasts a dark sand beach, Vernazza a harbour to rival Portofino, Corniglia a stunning clifftop position, while Riomaggiore and Manarola feel like a fusion of land and water.

I personally only completed this train ride once without getting off. The temptation to wander the labyrinthine lanes of the villages or hike along a series of bays and cliffs is too strong for me! But if you are short of time, it is a great way to experience one of Italy’s most unforgettable landscapes.

Not bad for a 3.3 euros price tag! Although it is worth getting yourself a CinqueTerre Train Card. It allows unlimited train travel between the villages and . There are One- to three-day options, from €18.20 at cinqueterre.eu.com

Pay attention before boarding your train. Some ‘fast‘ services that take only 18 minutes go directly to Monterosso, skipping the other 4 stops. You want the ‘slow’ 28-minute journey.

6. Merano to Malles (Val Venosta line)

From the sunny vineyards and vegetable orchards on the outskirts of Merano, the landscape changes to alpine forests and one hilltop castle after another all the way to the border with Switzerland. It is a delightfully slow train (you can also take your bycicle) , precisely what you want to enjoy the view.

Stop in Sluderno to visit the beautiful Castelbello or Castel Coira, and aim for reaching the end of the line at Malles.

Malles itself is a lovely market town on the ancient Roman Via Augusta, with onward connections to Austria and Switzerland. From Malles you can also catch a local bus to one of Suedtirol’s most iconic landmarks, the submerged belltower on Lake Reschen.

7. Rimini to Lecce

It takes over 6 hours by high-speed train, but they are six hours well spent!

The train lines connecting the east of Italy run for long stretches along the Adriatic coast. I did it once in spring and it was such a wonderful way to welcome the longer days and dream of lazy summers by the beach!

Between Rimini and Termoli (the crossing point for the Tremiti island) you will be treated to sea views, fishing villages and stretches of Apennines. The train then heads inwards in the forested Puglia province of Foggia at Barletta.

From Bari onwards you will ride past magical seaside villages like Polignano a Mare and Monopoli, before heading slightly inland by the ‘white city’ of Ostuni and then treat yourself to the magnificent Lecce baroque architecture.

8. Circumetnea

Only in Italy. If you are in Sicily and want to get a taste of Mount Etna without hiking, you can carch the Ferrovia Circumetnea from Catania. It encircles the volcano’s base and ends in Riposto.

Etna is one of the most dramatic sights in Italy, a stark reminder of the power of nature. Your train takes you past vineyards, prickly pears, fig trees, rising out of dark volcanic soil. The landscape is constantly changing, shaped by eruptions. Black lava streaks cover large stretches of fields.

The entire journey is 110 km long and takes 3 hours, unless you decide to get off at some of the intermediate stops and take the time to visit one of the Etna villages, such as Bronte, the capital of pistachio production, and Randazzo, a delightful medieval village with a Swabian castle and 3 churches corresponding to the three ancient quarters: Latin, Greek and Lombard.

9. Circumvesuviana

On the theme of volcanoes, while it does not attempt to circle Vesuvius or climb up its slopes, the Circumvesuviana Napoli commuter trains takes you from the centre of Naples to the clifftop coastal resort of Sorrento, via Herculaneum and Pompeii. If you are into your archaeology and ancient history, it is hard to beat!

There is a journey every half an hour and the direct trip takes roughly 1 hour and 20 minutes.

From Sorrento you can catch a SITA bus to the Amalfi coast and continue to be dazzled by the coastal beauty of Vietri sul Mare, Amalfi, and Positano.

10. The Bernina Express

Not many train routes get included in the UNESCO Heritage List. The Bernina express service from Tirano in Italy to St Moritz (or Chur) in Switzerland does.

55 tunnels and 196 bridges; the highest railway tracks in Europe; and the steepest in the world; a masterpiece of engineering for a journey that takes you from the palm trees of Tirano past some of the most spectacular alpine scenery of peaks, waterfalls and glaciers.

The one-way journey takes 4 hours. You can do this trip to arrive in Italy or to leave Italy for Switzerland – speak about arriving or departing in style! The service is run by Rhetian Railways and you can book your tickets in advance here.

You can also do it as a return trip to enjoy the scenery. It will be just as beautiful the second time!

3: Discover Italy one train journey at a time

I hope you found a destination or two that piqued your interest and that you are now tempted to catch the train next time you are in Italy.

There are many journeys I still have to undertake and my list is based on my travel experience so far. So, stay tuned. Next year there may be a couple of new entries.

The truth is that Italians are so spoiled for scenic train rides that some journeys I find incredible are simply seen as practical ways to get from A to B, When I travel to Italy, often all I have to do is lift my gaze from my book or my phone, to be surpised by a wonderful new journey.

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