I love Paris, I lived there and it will always have a special place in my heart. But if you plan to visit France during the spring and summer high season, it may feel like you are sharing it with thousands of other tourists. Step outside Paris (and the Provence/Cote d’Azur area) and things can be very different. Even some of France’s largest cities are surprisingly uncrowded (if you exclude the local population going about their lives, of course.) There are also delightful smaller towns, in beautiful locations, waiting to be discovered!
Here are 11 real hidden gems, great alternatives to some of Frances’s most visited destinations, and just as rich in beauty, history, and joje de vivre:
1.Reims, France
For lovers of: Paris and Versailles, French history, Royal history, Champagne
Imagine a small scale Paris, with the same elegant cream stucco mansions and a gorgeous Gothic two-towered cathedral by the name of Notre Dame.
If the Parisian Notre Dame has been called ‘the soul of France,’ its Reims sibling is its memory. 56 kings of France were crowned in Reims throughout over a millennium of French history – they are all sculpted in the cathedral. The cathedral itself is a Gothich jewel, intricate and lacelike, with incredible Stained glass windows.
There are other medieval gems scattered across the city centre, such as the Palais de Tau., and the 11-th century Basilica of St Remi (the saint to whom Reims owes its name).
Reims is also the main centre in the Champagne region, So, you can blend the sacred and historic with the Epicurean, and go wine tasting in the subterranean caves of some of the great producers. You can also catch a train to nearby Epernay or explore smaller centres in the Grand Cru area of La Montagne de Reims.
To read more about this Incredible French city, click here.
2. Auxerre
For lovers of: French history, dark ages history, medieval history, Chablis wine
I had been curious to see Auxerre since reading about the abbey of St Germain in Tom Holland’s Millenium and discovering it was one of the most ancient cities in France. When the opportunity finally came, I was not disappointed.
The City is the gem I expected it to be, Saint Germain is magnificent; its stone is blistering white, even more so in a sunny day, and lies in a peaceful city square. There are other beautiful churches in the centre such as the Gothic cathedral of St Etienne, whose outline sits on top a hill, dominating the city.
Cobbled streets and Burgundian architecture makes it a pleasure to wanter around, and the river banks are luxuriant. You can walk along them, including with your dog, or cycle along the Yonne towards parks on the outskirt of town and the stunning burgundian countryside.
Another highlight is in the terroir. North of Auxerre, the vineyards are planted to Chardonnay to produce Chablis. Chablis is not just a wine, it is also a delightful little village that you can visit. Whether you enjoy the wine or not, its riverside setting is so picturesque you will feel like you are stepping into a painting!
3. La Rochelle
For lovers of: Atlantic beaches, medieval history, naval history, Atlantic exploration, French modern history, seafood.
While its port was first developed by the Angevins, it was after the discovery of America that La Rochelle really came into his own.
There is something unique about la Rochelle, well captured by the City slogan: ‘La Rochelle: Belle et Rebelle.’
After freeing itself from feudal rule, it became an independent trading port, specialised in salt and wine. The 16th and 17th century saw it becoming Frnce’s ultimate protestant stronghold – there are protestant churches in the city still. Then this adventurous seafaring city became the departure point for the many ships heading to the new colonies in north America, particularly to Quebec. The wealth generated by shipbuilding and transatlantic trade is visible in the elegance of the architecture.
Despite the white stone, it reminds me of Bologna in Italy because of the long porticos – a welcome shelter from Atlantic rains.
Off the coast, are the beautiwul islands of Île de Ré, Île d’Aix, and Île d’Oléron, with gorgeous sandy beaches and a wonderful away-from-it-all vibe. They are also the source of the oysters ubiquitous on La Rochelle’s restaurant menus, and of some of its small=production wines.
Last but not least, this is a city at the forefront of sustainability and innovation. You will notice it immediately. keen on protecting its fragile marine environment. the municipality has developed an extensive network of cycling paths, encourages pedestrian travel, encourages re=purposing over new-built, and biodiversity initiatives are visible everywhere.
4. Metz, France
For lovers of: Strasbourg, French history, Holy Roman Empire history, German history, symbolist poetry, medieval architecture, Christmas markets
Metz, the capital of Lorraine, is one of France’s greenest cities, and has a wonderful historical centre that has somehow escaped mass tourism.
Metz used to be part of the Holy Roman empire, and was also Under German rule between 1871 and 1918. there is a distinctive German vibe about the architecture, such as its postcard-perfect Porte des Allemands.
It is a city that yields its beauty slowly, almost shy – The locals almost sound surprised when the foreigner heaps on the compliments. The cathedral, with its towering view on top of the hill of St Etienne, is only one of many attractions.
Wander the leafy squares surrounded by elegant ancient houses, follow the walk between the moselle and the well-preserved city wall, discover the culinary treats of the Covered Market, visit France’s oldest surviving church of St Pierre aux Nonnains) and step into its great museums: Musée de la Cour d’Or traces the history of the city, and the Parisian centre Pompidou has a twin in Metz! You can read more about Metz’s attractions here.
During Advent, Metz is home to one of France’s (and Europe’s) best Christmas markets. the centre comes to life, and stalls fill with beautiful produce and treats from the nearby countryside. but you won’t be hearing many foreign languages this spoken. Metz is a treasure the French have kept to themselves.
5. Blois
For lovers of: French history, Loire valley charm, Renaissance architecture, rivers, Loire Valley wines.
The first time I visited the Loire Valley we booked at the last minute and the only accommodation we could find over Easter was in Blois. This accident of fate turned out to be a lucky one. Blois is a departmental capital, so it is a proper city, far larger than the famous Loire villages such as Amboise and Chenonceau,
in addition to the castle it offers beautiful buildings from different eras. It is also fascinating in that the centre is spread across two hills overlooking the Loire, so there are monumental staircases and really beautiful corners. elegant squares with fountains, and many hotel particuliers (beautiful ancient mansions, some in a medieval half-timbered syle, some in the Renaissance fashion that really changed the loire Valley). There are corners that remind me of the Parisian Marais (dating from the same age.)
The castle is of medieval origin, and since the 13th century, when it became the capital of the county of Champagne, it witnessed some of the most important pages of French history. Joan of Arc was blessed by the Archbishop of Reims amongst his walls before leading the French army to battle against England.
In the early 16h century, the medieval fortress received an Italian Renaissance-inspired makeover, becoming the beautiful chateau we visit today. Further work was conducted until the 17th century, so the current chateau actually spans 4 centuries of French history.
Blois is an excellent base to visit the Loire Valley – the only valley completely included in the UNESCO Heritage list. The chateau of Chambord is a 25-minute drive away, and many other Loire valley masterpieces such as Chenonceau and Azay le Rideau are within easy reach,
6. Lyon
For lovers of: French history, decorative arts, contemporary history, Cinema history, Contemporary arts, gourmet food
Lyon is France’s second city, yet it tends to be overlooked, in favour of Paris, of course, but also of the seaside allure of the Cote d’Azur , or the fairy tale charms of the Loire Valley and Alsace.
Yet Lyon is a gem. Impossibly blue skies, pastel-coloured buildings, elegant architecture, hills, old world-class blended with contemporary creativity and a touch of irony, and not one but two rivers crossing the city centre!
There is of course a beautiful cathedral, an old town (Vieux Lyon) with cobbled streets, and elegant squares. There is also a delightful panoramic hill (La Fourvière) with roman ruins including a theatre and stretches of Roman Road!
Add to that an exciting food scene (the city boasts one of the highest concentrations of Michelin-starred restaurants pro capita in Europe), and a relaxed vibe, with tourist numbers not exceeding residents as is often the case in the most famous European destinations. This post gives you an idea of what Lyon offers and tips for planning your visit.
7. Toulouse
For lovers of: Picturesque cities, rivers, green cities, Cassoulet
Known as La ville rose, Toulouse is a city I only visited on a 24-hour stopover. But I have absolutely fallen in love with the place and want to go back for longer.
Toulouse is a city with two souls, one ancient and one projected into the future. It played, and still plays, a key global role in the aviation history (It is the home of Airbus). Before air travel, it owed its prosperity to two other kind of travel: pilgrimage – it sits on the French route to Santiago de Compostela – and the long distance trade of pastel, which earned it the nickname of ‘blue gold’ and paid for many of the city’s stunning buildings.
The pink city has incredible dawns and sunsets, a beautiful setting on the Garonne river, one of the most elegant squares in France (Place du Capitole), splendid merchant mansions from the city’s heyday, characteristic brick medieval churches, a vibrant pedestrianised old city perfect for an aperitif or an alfresco meal, It is also one of France’s green cities, with tranquil garden, and waterways waiting to be explored. You can find my mini-guide to Toulouse here.
8. Montpellier
For lovers of: Provence, Mediterranean city vibes.
Montpellier is one of France’s fastest growing cities, and a celebrated centre of innovation. But it also oozes character and a rich and textured history, which you can sense visiting its centre.
The Ecusson quartier, with the 13th-century cathedral of Saint Pierre and its many Belle Epoque buildings, is particularly charming. There is also a pretty unique neighbourhood all built in faux ancient-Greek architecture, called Antigone Montpeller boasts the oldest still-operating medical school in Europe (inside an 800-year-old former monastery). Visit it and discover the same faculty of medicine where writer Rabelais and magician Nostradamus studied.
The Botanical Garden, initially a medicinal garden for the university, is the most ancient in France.
If the attractions of the city are not enough, there are delightful beaches 10 minutes away by bus and bycicle!
9. Bordeaux
For lovers of: Paris, medieval history, French history, English history, Eleanor of Aquitaine, Bordeaux wines, naval history, rivers, gourmet food
When the architect Haussmann was given the job of redesigning the city of Paris, he looked for inspiration to the city that was considered the most elegant in France: Bordeaux.
Wine connaisseurs apart, Bordeaux was A bit neglected in favour of Paris in the final few decades of the last century. But the perle of Aquitaine is now rediscovering its beauty with a vengeance.
What makes Bordeaux worthy of such a lofty comparison? Let’s start with the ancient historical centre around Saint Pierre, with its buzzying allwyays and the stunning Gothic cathedral. Then, there are the elegant 17-th century mansions and civic buildings that turned into France’s most beautiful town (such as place the la Bourse).
Like Paris, Bordeaux makes the most of its river in architectural and civi terms. The pedestrianised riverside is magnificent, and easy to enjoy at all season. It is also a wonderful epitome of the city itself, with a Napoleonic Bridge on one side of the centre, facing a late medieval gate, and an ultramodern engineering wonder on the other side. On the riverside is also the Miroir d’Eau, created 20th years ago and already one of the symbols of the city,
Bordeaux boasts great city parks, both historic and modern, as well as museums and iconic contemporary structures. The futuristic Cité du Vin invites you on a journey to discover everything about the role of wine in culture..
.Are you missing the Eiffel Tower? Well, Gustave Eiffel built Bordeaux’s train station and a railway Bridge on the Garonne (La Passarelle Eiffel).
You can read more about Bordeaux here.
10. Arles
For lovers of: Avignon, Aix en Provence, Roman history, Van Gogh
A UNESCO World Heritage site since the 1980’s, Arles boasts atmospheric Roman ruins including a remarkably well-preserved amphitheatre, and Medieval monuments.
It concentrates so much charm in its compact size that Van Gogh painted it about 200 times! Most places where he painted are now marked with plaques. Follow them for a quite surreal walk through town. You will step into the settings of: Café Terrace at Night (place du Forum), The Yellow House (Place Lamartine), and Starry Night Over the Rhône (the riverbank).
If that is not magical enough, Arles is also the gateway to the gorgeous wild scenery of the Camargue region.
11. Strasbourg
One of France’s largest city and the seat of the European Parliament, Strasbourg sees an incredible influx of visitors during Advent, as its Christmas market is one of the most celebrated in Europe.
However, perhaps because I first visited Strasbourg on a beautiful May day, to me this is a city that deserves to be seen at different times of the year.
Strasbourg is a medieval wonder, with a UNESCO-Heritage-listed medieval city centre, la Grande Île. The cathedral is deservedly hailed as one of the masterpiece of European Gothic. The quaint waterside district of La Petite France is a delight of Alsatian-style half-timbered houses, and Neuhaus, the German imperial district, reflects the city’s complex past.
If you have an interest in contemporary politics, you can visit the European parliament. In the evening, you can relax over a hearty Alsatian meal washed down with a delicious local beer or wine.
Lovely postcard-perfect Alsatian villages such as Colmar and Eguisheim are easy to reach by public transport, and you can even hop to the Black Forest for the day – it lies on the other bank of the Rhine!
How do I get to these Cities?
By train, of course! France has one of the best developed rail networks in the world, and all the cities featured in this article have a train station. You can plan your trip and book your train tickets through SNCF.
Paris is not the only charming city in France
Of course, Paris is wonderful. I lived there and I wish I still did. It is such a fascinating city it is hard to tire of it. Given its size, it also copes well with huge tourist numbers and manages to remain authentic. But if you want to discover the richness and variety of France and French culture, try other destinations too.
Do you have other suggestions for great French city? Do drop me a line through the contact form. To get my weekly posts straight into your inbox, join my mailing list.
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