We have all heard of Parmesan cheese and Parma ham, yet how many people have the Italian city of Parma on their bucket list? Not as many as it deserves. On the upside, this means that tourists are still very welcome in Parma. I even had locals asking me if i needed help when they saw me using Google Maps to get around!
Why visit Parma
When I was studying art history in secondary school this provincial capital kept popping up. During the Middle Ages, it was one of Italy’s most important cities, and is still home to some of Italy’s medieval architectural masterpeices. During the Renaissance, with its strategic position between Tuscany, Mantua and Milan, it became a powerful political and cultural centre. Two of the most famous 16h century Italian painters, Correggio and Parmigianino, operated in Parma. In the following centuries, as the capital of a small but prestigious duchy of Parma and Piacenza, it continued to be a magnet for architects, artists and intellectuals. With its elegant buildings and airy layout, it is often considered a little Paris, although in winter it has the misty vibe of Venice.
Parma boasts art collections and museums worthy of a European capital, and has a great musical tradition.
Then, there is food. Parma is also at the heart of what the Italians called the Food Valley, where many of Italy’s most cherished artisan food is produced, and household names such as Barilla and Mutti have their headquarters. If you want to sample Italian food of the highest quality, Parma is the perfect place!
Do you have time to venture beyond the city? If you want to experience a medieval version of the Loire Valley, or of Germany’s Romantic Road, the Castles of the Duchy of Parma and Piacenza (Castelli del Ducato) are a fantastic break amongst hidden gems.
How to get to Parma
You can drive to Parma easily from Milan, Bologna, Liguria, and Tuscany. If you are only intending to visit the city centre,
in my view, if you are travelling through Northern Italy, the best way to see Parma is by train. Regional trains connect it with La Spezia (Liguria), so you could combine it with a visit to the Cinqueterre. Milan, Bologna, Modena and Brescia also have direct train connections to Parma. Check Trenitalia or Trainline to plan your trip.
If you are travelling from Tuscany, it makes sense to rent a car as the train journeys are not direct.
A short history of Parma
There were bronze age and Celtic settlements in the area, but Parma appears firmly on the map as a Roman colony on the Via Aemilia and Via Claudia. It was perceived as strategically important from a military perspective: a ‘Parma’ is a type of Roman shield. After being repeatedly ravaged during the dark ages, Parma became an important bishopric of the Holy Roman Empire and one of the most important medieval Communes of Northern Italy.
During the Renaissance, it fell under the control of Milan, before becoming the capital of a duchy ruled by the Farnese family. The first duke, Pier Luigi, was the illegitimate son of Paul III, one of the most important 16th century popes. Over the next couple of centuries the family married into the Medici and Este dynasties, and the Spanish and Portuguese royal families. The ducal family also brought from Rome the seeds of what would become an incredible art collection.
when the Farnese male line died out, the Duchy fell into the Austrian orbit. In the first half of the 19th century, Napoleon’s second wife, Maria Louisa, ruled it as Duchess. She took care of organising the incredible art collection amassed by earlier rulers into the magnificent gallery (Galleria Nazionale). and embellished parma and its surroundings with elegant buildings.
My Parma travel Guide
How long do you need to visit Parma?
The city centre is compact, so you would assume that a day is enough. However, if you want to visit the museums and art galleries you will need at least a couple of days.
If you want to explore further afield, visiting some of the magnificent castles such as Torrechiara and Fontanellato, or are planning to enjoy some opera, you will need longer. There are enough castles, natural sights, food experiences to fill a week! You can get an idea of the wealth of local attractions here.
Top 10 attractions for your Parma visit
- Duomo
- Battistero
- Museo Diocesano
- San Giovanni
- Aperitivo Ritual
- Palazzo della Pilotta and Teatro Farnese
- Galleria Nazionale
- Camera di San Paolo
- Food, Glorious Food
- Teatro Regio
1. Duomo
Dominating one of Italy’s best preserved medieval squares, the perfectly balanced Romanesque facade of Parma’s Cathedal (Duomo) dedicated to the Assumption of Mary, encloses some of Italy’s greatest artistic treasures.
As you enter the sacred space, you will be surrounded by colour. The ceiling is magnificent. The dominant colour is dark green, and you feel like you are entering a magical forest.
Visitors come for the breathtaking fresco adorning the dome, Correggio’s “Assumption of the Virgin,” a masterpiece of Renaissance art. Its vibrant yet delicate colours, and its swirling figures colours create an illusion of boundless space, pulling the viewer upwards into a celestial realm. I cannot look up without remembering my art history teacher telling us:
‘The Tuscan grand masters’ technique is about the outline of the figures; the Venetians’ about colour; but Correggio painted with light.’
Beyond the dome, the cathedral houses another artistic wonder. Benedetto Antelami’s ‘Deposition from the Cross.‘ This ground-breaking example of medieval sculpture represents a crucial transition from Romanesque to early Gothic art. Antelami’s work broke away from the more conventional and stylised forms of Romanesque sculpture, striving for naturalism and expressiveness. He was a narrator in stone, interested in depicting human emotion and drama, making the biblical scenes more relatable and impactful.
2. Battistero
If the Duomo blew you away, wait for the Battistero.
You may have heard of Stendhal’s syndrome – the powerful impact that great art and beauty can have on human emotions, even causing physiological symptons such as dizziness and heart palpitations. It is normally associcated with Florence, but stepping into the Battistero I remembered that one of Stendahl’s great novels (The Charterhouse of Parma) is partly set in the city. I could not help but wondering if it was actually in Parma that he first experienced it,
The Battistero’s octagonal shape, in pink Verona marble, is striking from outside.
It is unusual for a building to have the same sculptor and architect, yet Antelami took on the daunting double commission and delivered what is in my view one of the most incredible buildings in Italy.
Intricate religious sculptures emerge from the striking early gothic portals and a band of band of sculptures depicting real and mythical animals, the Zoofore, goes around the octagon.
The interior, with a frescoed dome so tall you feel like you are looking at heaven, is unique.
Sculptures by Antelami and its school dominate the space, their marble almost rising from the painted walls, to reclaim space and attention. There are sculptors of saints, angels, biblical figures. There is also a wonderful collection of representations of the months of the year, according to an agricultural calendar. They are a remarkable example of Antelami’s originality as a sculptor, of a desire to find the sacred even in the apparently profane – in humanity and in nature.
The frescoes are not by Antelami, but they are incredible. They occupy a very important place in Italian painting, as they date from the 12th century, when it was traditional to employ mosaic in churches. Yet the Parma frescoes manifest the light and colourfulness of the Bizantine mosaic tradition through the fresco painting medium.
3. Museo Diocesano
You buy the Baptistry tickets at the Museo Diocesano, and the museum is included in the ticket. it makes sense to visit it before the Baptistry, as it provides an opportunity to learn more about Antelami and medieval Parma, and hence to appreciate the Baptistry more.
A significant draw is the collection of original sculptures by Benedetto Antelami, which used to be part of the Baptistry and were moved here. They include figures like King Solomon and the Queen of Sheba, and the Archangels Michael and Gabriel. These life-size statues allow you a close-up view of Antelami’s craftsmanship.
Amongst the other highlights are some beautiful Roman mosaics discovered beneath Piazza Duomo, as elegant as oriental carpets.
4. San Giovanni
The San Giovanni monastery is one of Parma’s most fascinating buildings. There has been a Benedictine monastery on the site since the 10th century, and the monks of the Benedectine order, with their religious activities and artistic patronage, played a vital role in the life of Parma.
The monastery complex includes the church, cloisters, and a library, As you would expect given its millenium of history, it is in a blend of style, with Romanesque, Renaissance, and Baroque additions.
The church is home to some of Correggio‘s greatest frescoes. The dome, with is depiction of St John’s ascension to heaven, is considered his masterpiece and had a profound influence on later artists.
Like any respectable Benedictine monastery, San Giovanni had its own apothecary – The Antica Spezieria di San Giovanni. This medieval pharmacy is now a very interesting museum.
5. Aperitivo ritual
It may be the Spanish connection – one of the Parma ducal heiresses became Queen of Spain – but when it comes to eating out Parma has a Spanish vibe. Aperitivo is a ritual people of all ages indulge into, and when the weather permits the alfresco tables on Strada Farini and around Piazza Garibaldi are buzzing with people enjoying the dolce vita.
Local wines, both white and red, and the omnipresent platters of frescly sliced Parma ham and culatello make for an unforgettable night out. Aperitivo snacks often include Torta Fritta, delicious slices of dough fried in oil or traditionally in lard, to be consumed with deli meats and a hearty glass of wine.
6. Palazzo della Pilotta
The Palazzo della Pilotta used to be the city residence of the Dukes of Parma, and therefore the symbol of the ducal power of the Farnese family.
Construction began around 1580 under Ottavio Farnese, and continued for over a century. The building was used for various court activities, including storage and stables. Its unusual name comes from the ‘pelota’ game played by Spanish soldiers in one of its courtyards.
Today, the Palazzo della Pilotta houses several museums and cultural institutions, such as the Museo Archeologico Nazionale, (National Archaeological Museum). the Biblioteca Palatina (Palatine Library), and the Museo Bodoniano, dedicated to one of the great Renaissance printers, Giambattista Bodoni.
Inside it is also the Teatro Farnese, a masterpiece of Renaissance theatre architecture. Commissioned by Duke Ranuccio I Farnese, it was intended to impress and entertain visiting dignitaries, and celebrate the weddings through which the family forged powerful dynastic alliances.
The theatre is largely constructed of wood, which was then plastered to resemble marble, creating a visually stunning effect. Designed by Giovanni Battista Aleotti, it became famous throughout Europe. Dickens, during his travels to Italy, stopped in Parma to visit it.
It suffered significant damage during World War II bombings but has since been painstakingly restored to its former glory. It makes for a very atmospheric visit, and it is great that you are able to walk underneath the seats, admiring its beautiful wooden frame from beaneath.
As I mentioned, the PIlotta also houses the Museo Archeologico Nazionale. Its fascinating collection includes findings recovered from the exacavation of the Roman city of Velleia. Amongst the Roman statuary, there is a remarkable collection of statues of the Julian Claudian dynasty, including some of its famous women, and Nero as a child.
I also loved the gilded bronze head of Emperor Antoninus Pius.
The exterior of Palazzo Pilotta is also remarkable. The ruins of the church of San Pietro have been creatively transformed into a fountain, with a the peaceful Zen vibe. It is touching spot, and the way trees rise from the water instead of statues. A wonderful example of nature and culture coming together.
7. Galleria Nazionale
Like many cultural things in Parma, the Galleria Nazionale was established by Maria Luisa, Napoleon’s II wife. She became duchess of Parma after he was exiled. It houses a remarkable collection of art, that could hold their own against those of many European capitals.
There are a number of paintings by local glories Correggio and Parmigianino, and a beautiful girl’s head by Leonardo da Vinci. The local powers are well represented in painting of course. Sebastiano del Piombo’s portrait of “Pope Paulus III,” the founder of the Farnese dynasty, is a highlight.
A personal favourite of mine is the portrait of Erasmus of Rotterdam by Hans Holbein the Younger.
Sculpture is equally well-represented. Amongst the highlights, Antonio Canova‘s elegant representation of the museum’s founder, Maria Luisa, as well as some majestic Roman basalt giants, known as the ‘Giants of the Palatine.’
8. Camera di San Paolo
The Camera di San Paolo, located within the former Benedictine convent of San Paolo in Parma, is a small room but a significant artistic treasure. In 1519, the Abbess Giovanna asked Correggio to fresco her private room.
The commission gave Correggio the opportunity to showcase his talent and originality, paving the way for his work in the Duomo and in San Giovanni. It is considered one his early masterpieces, displaying his mastery of illusionistic painting.
The frescoes include depictions of mythological figures, allegorical scenes, and intricate trompe-l’œil effects, such as the use of a Faux Pergola. The dominant colour is green, and the private realm of the abbess appears like a magical, almost sensuous Renaissance garden.
What is fascinating about this space, is that it enables you to appreciate many things at one: the genius of Correggio, the importance of artistic patronage, the rich cultural life of Renaissance Parma.
It also allows us to catch a glimpse of the private life and taste of a Renaissance Abbess, a lady who ruled a powerful convent and whose talent-spotting skills helped one of the most original renaissance painters forge his career.
The Camera di San Paolo is a small space and when you buy the ticket you will be allocated a time for the visit. It is a good idea as you can appreciate the uniqueness of this chamber a lot better with less people around.
9. Food glorious food
Parma’s Mercato Coperto (covered market) is a vibrant hub of local food culture, offering a diverse array of fresh, high-quality products. in Italy, food sustainability centres on the concept of “km 0”, meaning produced in the immediate surroundings. In markets, you will find seasonal fruits and vegetables, often directly from local producers. Being Parma there is also an emphasis on the local gastronomic treasures such as Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese, Prosciutto di Parma, Culatello, and Salame.
The market is only open in the morning, but if you arrive in the afternoon, there are plenty of salumerie, Prosciutterie, and delis in the city centre, from Via Farini to Via Cavour. every street seems to have at least one. Just go in, browse, and be friendly. You’ll walk away with something to make your next meal unforgettable.
There are also food discovery tours, but I haven’t tried any so I cannot recommend. Check tripadvisor for ideas.
10. The Teatro Regio
Giuseppe Verdi, probably Italy’s most famous opera composer, was from Busseto, a village in the Parma province. Every Autumn Busseto and Parma’s Teatro Regio host a month-long Festival Verdiano. If you are a classical music lover, this is the be best time to go to Parma. The city is also the hometown of conductor Toscanini, and the theatre saw many important premieres over the two centuries of its existence.
Even if you aren’t a visit to the Teatro Regio provides with an insight into this very important part of Parma’s identity. while not as well known as La Scala in Milan or La Fenice in Venice, Parma’s Teatro Regio is one of the great homes of the Italian opera tradition, and the audience one of its most demanding.
The tour ticket includes a visit to the Casa della Musica, and the Casa Natale Arturo Toscanini (the house where conductor Toscanini was born.
Parma is one of Italy’s ultimate hidden gems
I cannot wait to go back to Parma. I do not feel I did the Pilotta justice. I rushed through the Galleria Nazionale, which was much larger than I expected, and did not have time to see the Museo Bodoniano – the history of printing is a passion of mine. I also look forward to revisiting Correggio’s masterpieces, and going back to the Battistero, one of the most magnificent sacred spaces I have ever seen.
As mentioned above, if you have more than a weekend, you can explore some of the wonderful Castelli del Ducato, such as Torrechiara or Fontanellato, and discover Parma’s answer to the Loire Valley!
This article is now featured on GPSmyCity. To download this article for offline reading or create a self-guided walking tour to visit the attractions highlighted in this article, go to Walking Tours and Articles in Parma.
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